60-minute guarantee · Coupon
Later than 60 minutes from call to door?
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No code to remember: tell your plumber or our dispatcher and $60 comes off the invoice. Good 24/7 on emergency calls in our service areas. Guarantee terms
Open 24/7 · 60-minute guarantee
Tankless Water Heaters
A tankless heater makes hot water on demand and frees up the space a tank takes — but it’s fussier about gas supply, venting and upkeep. We install, repair and service gas and electric units, and we’ll say so when a tank is the better choice.
At your location in 60 minutes or you save $60.
The short answer
If your tankless heater shows an error code or keeps cutting out, write the code down and reset it once — if the code comes back, leave it off. If you smell gas, get everyone out, don’t touch switches or flames, and call 911 or the gas utility from outside. Then call us: we read the code, test the gas supply under load and check the inlet filter and vent, with the price before any repair.
Is this an emergency?
Call now if…
- You smell gas near the unit — get out first, then call 911 or the gas utility from outside
- A carbon monoxide alarm is sounding — get everyone outside and call 911
- Water is leaking from the unit or its connections
- A restaurant or business has lost the hot water it needs to stay open
Can usually wait for a scheduled visit
- An error code that cleared after one reset and hasn’t come back
- Hot water that takes a little longer to arrive than it used to
- A flush and filter cleaning that’s coming due
Not sure? Call anyway — we’ll tell you honestly.
Do this right now
- If you smell gas, get everyone out, don’t touch switches or flames, and call 911 or the gas utility from outside.
- Write down the error code before you reset anything.
- Reset the unit once; if the code comes back, leave it off and call.
- If it’s leaking, close the cold-water valve under the unit and switch off its breaker.
Signs you need us
- An error code flashing on the display
- Hot water that goes cold mid-shower, then comes back
- Not enough hot water when two showers run at once
- A heater that cuts out whenever the boiler or stove is on
- A low trickle of hot water that never gets hot
- Hot water that turns lukewarm in the coldest months
- Hot-water flow noticeably weaker than the cold
- Water dripping from the unit, its vent or the condensate line
How we handle the call
- 01
Read the code
The code points to ignition, flame, venting, overheating or flow, so we know where to start.
- 02
Test gas under load
We measure gas pressure at full fire with your other gas appliances running — that’s how an undersized line shows itself.
- 03
Clean and flush
Inlet filter cleaned, heat exchanger flushed, and the vent and condensate line checked for blockages.
- 04
Fix the real cause
Failed igniters, sensors and fans replaced — and when the gas line or vent is to blame, that fix is priced before we start.
- 05
Size new units right
For a new heater, we size it to the fixtures you run at once, then plan the gas line, vent and condensate drain to match.
Know your building
Tankless heaters in apartments, houses and restaurants
A tankless heater hangs on the wall and frees the closet or basement corner a tank used to fill — a real gain in a small apartment or an older rowhouse. The vent is the hard part. In many older homes the water heater shares a chimney with the boiler, but a tankless unit usually needs a vent of its own, most often through an outside wall, ending a set distance from windows, doors and air intakes. In a detached house, the unit can often hang on a basement wall and vent straight out the side; a rowhouse between two neighbors may only have the front, the back or the roof.
In an apartment you rent, that outside wall belongs to the building, so a new vent needs the landlord’s go-ahead — and in a co-op or condo, the board’s approval under the house rules. Gas is the other limit: at full fire, a whole-home unit can burn several times as much gas as the tank it replaces, so the old line often can’t keep up, and a bigger line is gas work that may need a permit. Electric units need no vent or gas line, but a whole-home model needs more electrical capacity than many older apartments have, so there it’s usually practical only as a small unit under one sink. Restaurants that go tankless often run several units side by side to keep up with dish machines and hand sinks, and that much hot water means more frequent flushing.
One visit, whole job
Everything covered on the call
- Error code diagnosis
- Units that cut out or run lukewarm
- Igniter, flame sensor and fan repairs
- Heat exchanger flushing
- Inlet filter cleaning
- Service valves for easy flushing
- Gas line sizing and upsizing
- Vents and condensate drains
- Tank-to-tankless conversions and replacements
Upfront price, every time
What tankless work costs
A repair depends on where the error code leads. Cleaning a clogged inlet filter or flushing the heat exchanger is a short visit; an igniter, flame sensor or fan is a part swap; a control board or heat exchanger costs more. When the real cause is an undersized gas line or a bad vent run, the fix is in the piping, not the unit.
A new installation depends on what the unit needs that a tank didn’t: a bigger gas line, a new vent through the wall, a condensate drain, an outlet nearby and service valves. Swapping one tankless unit for another on existing lines is a much smaller job than converting from a tank. We price it all before work starts — and if a new tank is the better buy, we tell you.
Honest advice
Tankless, or a new tank?
Go tankless when floor space matters, when your household keeps running a tank out of hot water, or when you’ll stay long enough for the longer life and lower standby losses to make up for the bigger installation — as long as the gas line and a vent route can work.
Stick with a tank when the old one vents into a chimney you can keep using, when the gas line or the building would turn the switch into a project, or when you need hot water back today. A tank with a standing pilot also keeps working in a blackout; most tankless units don’t. You get both prices side by side.
Mistakes that make it worse
- Resetting the same error code again and again instead of finding out why it keeps coming back
- Buying a bigger unit without checking that the gas line and vent can carry it
- Skipping flushes because the water looks clean — scale builds out of sight, and faster in hard water
- Installing a unit without service valves, so every flush means taking the plumbing apart
Keep it from happening again
- Have the heat exchanger flushed and the inlet filter cleaned on the schedule in the manual
- Keep the outside vent and air intake clear of snow, ice and leaves
- Stagger big hot-water jobs — laundry, the dishwasher and two showers at once can outrun one unit
- Test your carbon monoxide alarms — many states and cities require them, and they warn you if a vent fails
The 60-minute guarantee
The clock starts when our dispatcher confirms your job. If we’re late, $60 comes off your invoice. No forms, no fine-print games. Read the terms
FAQ
Tankless Water Heaters questions
Why does my tankless heater go cold in the middle of a shower?
It’s usually losing its flame or its flow: gas pressure that sags when another appliance fires, a clogged inlet filter, a dirty flame sensor, or flow too low to keep the burner lit. The error code narrows it down.
Can a tankless heater run two showers at once?
One sized for it can, but every unit has a flow limit, and it drops in winter, when the incoming water is much colder. If yours can’t keep up, the fix may be a bigger unit, a second one or lower-flow showerheads.
Will I need a bigger gas line for a tankless heater?
Often, yes. A whole-home unit draws gas far faster than a tank heater, so we check the size and length of your line, and everything else it feeds, before installing one.
How often does a tankless heater need flushing?
On the schedule in the manual, and more often if your water is hard. Hardness varies by area — your water utility’s annual water-quality report lists it. Hard water scales the heat exchanger faster, and a softener may help; with soft water, scale is rarely the problem. Either way, keep the inlet filter clean: a clogged filter on its own can cut your hot-water flow and set off error codes.
Will a tankless heater work in a power outage?
Most won’t. Gas tankless units need electricity for the fan, controls and ignition — and a unit in a cold cellar or on an outside wall loses its freeze protection too.
Can I put a tankless heater in my co-op or condo?
It depends on the building. A gas unit usually needs a new vent through an outside wall and sometimes a bigger gas line, and the board will want to sign off on both — we give the managing agent the details they ask for.
More we handle
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