60-minute guarantee · Coupon
Later than 60 minutes from call to door?
Here’s $60 off.
No code to remember: tell your plumber or our dispatcher and $60 comes off the invoice. Good 24/7 on emergency calls in our service areas. Guarantee terms
Open 24/7 · 60-minute guarantee
Toilet Installation
A cracked tank, a leak at the base or a toilet that never flushes right is a good reason to replace it. We measure before you buy, repair the flange under the old one if it needs it, and set the new toilet level and sealed — then take the old one away.
At your location in 60 minutes or you save $60.
The short answer
Unless it’s your only toilet or it’s leaking, a new toilet can be planned. If water is seeping from the base, close the valve behind it and stop using it; if the tank is cracked, close the valve and flush once so the tank empties down the drain. Before you buy, measure from the finished wall — not the baseboard — to the center of the bolts at the base: 12 inches is standard, but older buildings can have 10 or 14. We fix the flange if it needs it, fit a new valve and supply line, and set the toilet level and sealed, with the price before we start.
Is this an emergency?
Call now if…
- It’s the only toilet in the home and it’s cracked or out of service
- A cracked tank or bowl is leaking onto the floor
- Water from around the base is coming through the ceiling below
Can usually wait for a scheduled visit
- Upgrading a working toilet to a high-efficiency or comfort-height model
- Replacing a second toilet that works but flushes poorly
- Swapping the toilet as part of a bathroom renovation
Not sure? Call anyway — we’ll tell you honestly.
Do this right now
- Close the supply valve on the wall behind the toilet.
- If the tank is cracked, flush once after closing the valve so the tank empties down the drain.
- If water is seeping from the base, stop using that toilet — each flush pushes more under the floor.
- Before buying a new one, measure the rough-in: finished wall to the center of the floor bolts.
Signs you need us
- A crack in the tank or bowl — even a hairline one
- Water seeping from under the base after a flush
- Rocking that comes back after the bolts are tightened
- Soft, stained or lifting floor around the toilet
- A sewer smell right at the base
- An older low-flow model that needs two flushes every time
- Flush and fill parts no longer made for your model
- A seat so low it’s hard on knees and hips
How we handle the call
- 01
Measure first
We check the rough-in, the room on each side and the supply valve before you buy — or confirm that the toilet you’ve already bought will fit.
- 02
Inspect the flange
With the old toilet off, we check the flange, the floor and the drain opening. A cracked flange gets fixed now, not after the next leak — and if the floor has gone soft, we show you before anything new goes down.
- 03
New valve and seal
A quarter-turn shut-off and a braided supply line replace the old ones, and we pick a wax ring or wax-free seal to suit the flange.
- 04
Set it level
The toilet is shimmed so it can’t rock, bolted down evenly so the porcelain isn’t stressed, and sealed at the floor.
- 05
Test and haul away
We flush it several times, check the tank, base and supply for leaks, and take the old toilet with us.
Know your building
New toilets in older homes, condos and walk-ups
In older walk-ups and rowhouses, the toilet often sits on cast-iron drain pipe that’s been there for the better part of a century, and the flange on top of it is usually what fails. When we lift the old toilet, we check the flange and the floor around it before anything new goes down — a cracked or rusted flange gets repaired or replaced, not hidden under a fresh wax ring. Older bathrooms are also where 10- and 14-inch rough-ins turn up, so measure instead of assuming 12. And where new tile has raised the floor, the flange can end up below the surface, which calls for an extension ring to bring it up to height. In a house with a basement or crawlspace, look at the floor under the toilet from below too — dark stains or soft wood around the drain usually mean the old seal has been leaking for a while.
In an apartment building, if the valve behind the old toilet won’t close, the super or building manager may need to shut the riser for a few minutes while we replace it — and in a co-op or condo, house rules usually set the hours we can work. Some newer condos have wall-hung toilets: the tank and flush valve sit inside the wall on a steel carrier, and the bowl hangs from it. Their parts are reached through the flush plate and have to match the carrier, so we identify it before ordering anything. In a walk-up, carrying a new toilet up and the old one down several flights is part of the job, and we plan for it. Restaurants, shops and offices often have toilets with no tank at all — a flush valve on the supply pipe does the work — and a replacement bowl has to be matched to that valve.
One visit, whole job
Everything covered on the call
- Rough-in measuring before you buy
- Toilets you’ve bought, or one we supply
- Old toilet removed and hauled away
- Closet flange repair or replacement
- Wax ring or wax-free seal
- New quarter-turn shut-off valve
- Braided stainless supply line
- Shimming, bolting and sealing at the floor
- Wall-hung toilets on in-wall carriers
Upfront price, every time
What toilet installation costs
The price depends on the toilet and on what we find under the old one. A like-for-like swap onto a sound flange with a working valve is a straightforward job; a broken flange, a seized shut-off, a rough-in that doesn’t match or water damage under the old toilet adds time and parts. Replacing a wall-hung bowl depends on the carrier behind it, and putting one in where there wasn’t one before means opening the wall.
Installing a toilet you’ve bought is priced as labor and parts; if we supply it, the toilet is part of the price. Either way you get the full price before we start, and if lifting the old toilet uncovers a problem, we show you and price it before going further.
Honest advice
Standard, comfort height or wall-hung?
For most bathrooms, the right answer is a floor-mounted high-efficiency toilet. How well a toilet flushes comes down to its design — the size of the flush valve, a fully glazed trapway — so choose on flush performance, not just looks. Comfort-height (or chair-height) models put the seat a few inches higher, which is easier on knees and hips; standard height can suit children and shorter adults better.
A wall-hung toilet makes sense when there’s already a carrier in the wall, as in some newer condos, or when the bathroom is being gutted anyway. It saves floor space, lets the seat height be set when it’s installed and makes the floor easy to clean — but converting from a floor-mounted toilet means opening the wall and adding a carrier, which is renovation work, not a swap.
Mistakes that make it worse
- Buying a toilet before measuring the rough-in — a 12-inch toilet won’t fit a 10-inch space
- Stacking two wax rings to make up for a flange that sits below the floor
- Cranking the floor bolts down hard — porcelain cracks under uneven pressure
- Resetting a toilet on the same wax ring after lifting it — once squashed, it won’t seal again
Keep it from happening again
- Skip in-tank bleach tablets — they wear out the rubber parts inside
- Don’t stand on the seat or lid — the strain can shift the toilet and break the seal
- Choose a model whose flush and fill parts are easy to buy
- Keep the caulk at the base intact so mop water can’t soak under the toilet
The 60-minute guarantee
The clock starts when our dispatcher confirms your job. If we’re late, $60 comes off your invoice. No forms, no fine-print games. Read the terms
FAQ
Toilet Installation questions
How do I measure the rough-in for a new toilet?
Measure from the finished wall behind the toilet — not the baseboard — to the center of the bolts that hold it to the floor. If there are four bolts, use the pair nearer the wall; 12 inches is standard, and 10 or 14 means you need a toilet made for that size.
Will a new toilet save water?
If yours dates from before the mid-1990s, yes — by a lot. Toilets made since then are low-flow, and today’s high-efficiency models use less again while still clearing the bowl in one flush.
Is a wax ring or a wax-free seal better?
A wax ring is the traditional choice and seals reliably on a sound flange at the right height. A wax-free seal can be repositioned and copes better with a flange that sits a little low, so we use whichever suits what we find.
Can you install a toilet I already bought?
Yes. Check that its rough-in matches yours and that you have everything — many toilets ship as a separate tank and bowl, and the seat is often sold separately.
Can I switch to a wall-hung toilet?
Yes, but it’s a bigger job than a toilet swap: the wall has to be opened for a carrier and in-wall tank, and the drain may need to move. In a co-op or condo, expect it to need the building’s alteration paperwork.
Do you take the old toilet away?
Yes. We carry it out and dispose of it, so you’re not left wrestling a porcelain toilet down the stairs or out to the curb.
More we handle
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