60-minute guarantee · Coupon
Later than 60 minutes from call to door?
Here’s $60 off.
No code to remember: tell your plumber or our dispatcher and $60 comes off the invoice. Good 24/7 on emergency calls in our service areas. Guarantee terms
Open 24/7 · 60-minute guarantee
Faucet Installation
A new faucet is a simple upgrade — until the old one won’t come off, the holes don’t match or the valves under the sink won’t close. We install kitchen, bathroom, laundry and shower fixtures, yours or ours, and replace the tired valves and lines behind them while we’re there.
At your location in 60 minutes or you save $60.
The short answer
A faucet swap is planned work, so there’s time to get it right. Before you buy, count the holes in the sink or counter, measure center to center between the outer two, and check that a tall spout will clear any window, shelf or cabinet above. We take out the old faucet, replace seized stop valves and tired supply lines, install the new one — yours or one we supply — and test it for leaks, all at a price you agree to before we start.
Is this an emergency?
Call now if…
- A connection from a do-it-yourself install is spraying or dripping fast
- The old faucet broke during removal and the water won’t shut off
- Water is running into the cabinet or through to the floor below
Can usually wait for a scheduled visit
- Upgrading a faucet that still works
- New shower trim for a fresh look
- Adding a separate filtered-water faucet
Not sure? Call anyway — we’ll tell you honestly.
Do this right now
- Count the holes in the sink or counter, and measure center to center between the outer two.
- Check that the new spout will clear any window sash, shelf or cabinet above the sink.
- Look under the sink and tell us if the stop valves are crusted, missing or won’t turn.
- Clear out the sink cabinet so we can reach the connections.
Signs you need us
- A faucet that starts dripping again soon after each repair
- A worn finish, a loose base or a wobbling spout
- Stop valves under the sink that won’t fully close
- A spout too short or too low for your pots
- A side sprayer that leaks or barely sprays
- A two- or three-handle shower you’d like to swap for a single handle
- A kitchen faucet older than the 2014 lead-free rules
- A new sink, counter or vanity on the way
How we handle the call
- 01
Check the fit
We match the faucet to the hole count, the spread and the thickness of the counter, and make sure a pull-down hose has room to move under the sink.
- 02
Test the valves
Stop valves that won’t hold are replaced with quarter-turn ones — and added where an old sink never had any.
- 03
Remove the old one
Corroded nuts and fused connections come off with the pipe in the wall held steady, so it doesn’t twist or crack.
- 04
Install and seal
The new faucet goes in with fresh supply lines, a watertight seal at the base and a deck plate over any unused holes.
- 05
Flush and check
We flush grit out of the lines before the aerator goes on, then run hot and cold and check every joint for leaks.
Know your building
Faucet swaps in apartments and older homes
In older apartment buildings, the hard part is rarely the faucet — it’s what the faucet connects to. Some sinks have no stop valves at all, so changing the faucet means asking the super or building manager to shut the riser; others have valves that haven’t turned in decades, sitting on a rusted steel nipple that can snap when it’s disturbed. We ask about your shut-offs when you book, and where the old pieces are failing we replace them with brass, so the next faucet change doesn’t need the riser shut. In a house, the backup is the main shut-off where the water line comes in — often in the basement, crawlspace or utility room — so check that it turns before the day of the job.
Shower fixtures are where older homes and buildings get tricky. Many older bathrooms still have two- or three-handle tub and shower valves, and new trim only fits if it’s made for the valve in the wall; switching to a single-handle pressure-balance valve means opening the wall — ideally from a closet behind it rather than through the tile. In co-ops and condos a sink faucet swap is usually simple, but replacing a shower valve can fall under the building’s alteration rules, so check with your managing agent or board first. In restaurants, shops and offices, faucets get far more use than at home, so a model with cartridges that are easy to get matters even more.
One visit, whole job
Everything covered on the call
- Kitchen, bathroom and laundry faucets
- A faucet you chose, or one we bring
- Pull-down and pull-out kitchen sprayers
- Wall-mount faucets and their in-wall valves
- Shower and tub trim kits
- Pressure-balance shower and tub valves
- Quarter-turn stop valves and new supply lines
- Deck plates for unused sink holes
- Lead-free faucets for drinking water
Upfront price, every time
What faucet installation costs
The price depends on the fixture and on what’s behind it. A single-hole faucet on a sink with good valves is a short job; a widespread bathroom faucet, a wall-mount faucet, missing or seized stop valves, or shower trim that needs a new valve behind the tile takes longer.
Supplying the faucet adds its cost to the job; installing one you bought doesn’t. Either way you see the full price — fixture, valves, lines and labor — before any work starts.
Honest advice
Buy the faucet yourself, or have us bring one?
Buying your own is fine, and most people do. Pick one from a maker whose cartridges are easy to find, check that it fits your hole count and spread, and for a kitchen or bathroom sink, make sure it’s marked lead free. A bargain faucet with no parts support can look the part and still leave you hunting for a cartridge a few years later.
Having us bring one makes sense when you’re not sure what fits, when it’s shower trim that has to match the valve in the wall, or when you want it done in one visit. Tell us the model when you book, and we’ll tell you honestly if it won’t suit your sink before you open the box.
Mistakes that make it worse
- Reusing old stop valves and supply lines under a brand-new faucet
- Loosening a stuck nut without holding the pipe — old pipe in the wall twists and cracks
- Skipping the line flush before the aerator goes on — grit lodges in the new cartridge
- Ordering shower trim that doesn’t match the valve behind the wall
Keep it from happening again
- Clean the aerator after any building water shutdown — grit stirred up in the pipes collects there
- Keep the space under the sink clear so a pull-down hose and its weight can move freely
- Wipe finishes with mild soap and water — abrasive cleaners wear through them
- Keep the faucet’s model number and paperwork so the next repair is quick
The 60-minute guarantee
The clock starts when our dispatcher confirms your job. If we’re late, $60 comes off your invoice. No forms, no fine-print games. Read the terms
FAQ
Faucet Installation questions
How do I know which faucet fits my sink?
Count the holes and measure between them. One hole takes a single-handle faucet, three holes spanning 4 inches center to center take a centerset, and three spread wider take a widespread — and a single-hole faucet can sit on a three-hole sink with a deck plate covering the rest.
Can I change my shower handle without opening the wall?
Usually, if the new trim is made for the valve that’s already there. A different brand, or going from two or three handles to one, means replacing the valve itself — and that means opening the wall.
Is a new faucet lead free?
Since 2014, federal law has required plumbing products that carry drinking water to be “lead free”, so check that a new kitchen or bathroom faucet is marked that way. An antique or salvaged faucet may not meet that standard, so keep it off a sink you drink from.
Can you install a wall-mount faucet?
Yes. Replacing one is straightforward when the new faucet matches the valves already in the wall; switching from a deck-mount faucet means opening the wall for new supply lines and choosing a spout long enough to reach the drain.
Will a pull-down kitchen faucet work with my sink?
Almost always, as long as there’s headroom for the spout and space under the sink for the hose and its counterweight. We check both before we start.
Do you install laundry and utility sink faucets?
Yes — utility sink faucets, washing machine valves and the hose connections behind the washer.
More we handle
Real People. Real Help.
Water on the floor? Call now.
Fast Help. Fair Pricing. Professional Plumbing Service.
Can’t talk? We’ll call you back in minutes