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Water Filter Installation

Rust and lead at the tap often come from the building’s own pipes rather than the water the utility delivers. We install under-sink, reverse-osmosis and whole-house filters and fridge water lines, matched to what your water actually needs.

At your location in 60 minutes or you save $60.

The short answer

If a filter or its tubing is leaking, close the valve that feeds it — or the cold valve under the sink — and call us. Planning a filter? Test first, since the problem is often the building’s own pipes: many water utilities offer lead testing, and otherwise an accredited lab can do it. For lead, choose a filter certified to NSF/ANSI 53 or a reverse-osmosis system certified to NSF/ANSI 58, and we’ll install it cleanly, with the price before we start.

Is this an emergency?

Call now if…

  • A filter housing has cracked or its tubing has blown off and is spraying
  • The fridge or ice-maker line is leaking and its valve won’t close
  • A whole-house filter at the main is leaking onto the floor

Can usually wait for a scheduled visit

  • Adding a drinking-water filter at the kitchen sink
  • Swapping an old filter system for a new one
  • Running a water line to a new fridge

Not sure? Call anyway — we’ll tell you honestly.

Do this right now

  1. If a filter is leaking, close the valve that feeds it or the cold valve under the sink.
  2. If a whole-house filter is leaking, close the main shut-off.
  3. If you’re worried about lead, drink and cook with cold water only, and ask your water utility about lead testing — or use an accredited lab.

Signs you need us

  • Brown or rusty water after the taps have sat unused
  • Grit or sediment clogging faucet aerators
  • A chlorine taste or smell you’d rather not drink
  • A water test that came back showing lead
  • A lead service line, or copper pipe joined with old lead solder
  • A filter housing or tubing dripping under the sink
  • A weeping saddle valve on the fridge or ice-maker line
  • Cases of bottled water because you don’t trust the tap

How we handle the call

  1. 01

    Start with your water

    We ask what’s bothering you — rust, taste or lead — and whether you’ve tested, so the filter fits the problem.

  2. 02

    Check the space

    We look at the sink cabinet, a spare hole for the filter faucet, and where the supply and drain lines can connect.

  3. 03

    Price before work

    You get the price for the installation, and for the system if we supply it, before we start.

  4. 04

    Install it cleanly

    A proper tee and shut-off valve, a dedicated faucet, the RO drain line and air gap — and never a saddle valve.

  5. 05

    Flush and check

    We flush the new cartridges, check every joint for drips and show you how to change the filter yourself.

Know your building

Filtering rust and lead in apartments and houses

Your water utility’s annual water-quality report shows what’s in the water it delivers, but what you see or taste at the tap often comes from the building itself. In an older apartment building, that can be rust and grit from galvanized risers; in some older homes and buildings, it’s lead from a lead service line, lead solder or old brass fixtures. Since 2014, federal law has required plumbing products that carry drinking water to be “lead free”, but plenty of older pipe is still in service. That’s why the first step is a test at your own tap — many water utilities offer lead testing or can tell you what your service line is made of, and otherwise an accredited lab can do it.

What you can install depends on the building. In an apartment, you don’t control the risers or the service line, so the practical fix is a filter at your own tap — and if you rent, a removable one, with your landlord’s permission before anyone drills a counter. In a co-op or condo, check the house rules first — some boards want notice before any plumbing work. In a house with its own main — an older rowhouse, or a detached house where the line comes in through the basement or crawlspace — a whole-house filter at the entry is an option too, and replacing a lead service line removes that source.

One visit, whole job

Everything covered on the call

  • Under-sink filters with their own faucet
  • Reverse-osmosis systems
  • RO drain connections and air gaps
  • Whole-house sediment filters
  • Whole-house carbon filters
  • Fridge and ice-maker lines and inline filters
  • Saddle valves replaced with proper shut-offs
  • Removable setups for renters
  • Old filter systems taken out

Upfront price, every time

What filter installation costs

The price depends on the system and where it goes. An under-sink filter is a short job when the sink has a spare hole for its faucet; drilling stone, fitting an RO system with its drain connection and air gap, or running a new line across the kitchen to a fridge takes longer.

A whole-house filter depends on the size of the main, the room around it and the valves it needs. Cartridges are an ongoing cost, so we tell you what replacements cost and how often they’re due — and you get the full price before any work starts.

Honest advice

Under-sink filter or whole-house system?

For drinking and cooking water — and above all for lead — filter at the tap. An under-sink filter certified to NSF/ANSI 53 for lead, or an RO system certified to NSF/ANSI 58, treats the water at the last point before you drink it, after it has passed through every pipe and fitting in the building.

A whole-house filter makes sense in a house where rust or grit shows up at every tap, stains laundry or clogs appliance screens. It isn’t a lead fix on its own, because water still runs through the house’s pipes and fixtures after it. Many houses end up with both: sediment filtering at the main and a drinking-water filter at the kitchen sink.

Mistakes that make it worse

  • Assuming any filter removes lead — look for one certified to NSF/ANSI 53 for lead, or NSF/ANSI 58 for RO
  • Feeding the fridge from a self-piercing saddle valve — a common source of slow, hidden leaks
  • Running hot water through a filter made for cold — it can ruin the cartridge
  • Tying an RO drain line in below the sink trap, or leaving out the air gap

Keep it from happening again

  • Write the install date on each cartridge and change it on the maker’s schedule
  • Drink and cook with cold water, and run it until it’s cold when it has sat overnight
  • Retest for lead after work on the building’s pipes — disturbing old pipe can shake lead loose
  • Check under the sink for drips after every cartridge change

The 60-minute guarantee

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FAQ

Water Filter Installation questions

Is my tap water safe to drink?

Your water utility’s annual water-quality report shows what’s in the water it delivers and how that compares with drinking-water standards. Trouble often starts inside the building — rust from old risers, or lead from a service line or old solder — so a lead test at your own tap tells you where you stand. Many water utilities offer one; otherwise, use an accredited lab.

Which filter removes lead?

One certified to NSF/ANSI 53 for lead reduction, or a reverse-osmosis system certified to NSF/ANSI 58 that lists lead. Check that lead is named on the box or listing — a filter that only claims better taste won’t do.

Do I need reverse osmosis?

Usually not if lead is your only worry — an under-sink filter certified to NSF/ANSI 53 handles that. RO goes further, taking out dissolved minerals and a wider range of contaminants, but it needs a drain connection, an air gap and room for a tank, and sends some water down the drain. Your water utility’s annual water-quality report and a test at your tap show whether your water calls for it.

Can I put in a water filter if I rent?

Usually, with your landlord’s permission. We can fit an under-sink system that uses an existing hole in the sink and comes out cleanly when you move.

Will a whole-house filter lower my water pressure?

A properly sized one shouldn’t make much difference, but a clogged cartridge will. We size the housing to your main and add a bypass, so the water can stay on while a cartridge is changed.

Can you hook up water to my fridge and ice maker?

Yes. We run the line from a proper shut-off valve, never a saddle valve, and add an inline filter if your fridge doesn’t have one built in.

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